|
Model VR (Vintage Rosewood) - Base Price $3,000 Dreadnaught body pattern with AAAA Sitka Spruce top, ivoroid/black/ivoroid binding, Herringbone or D-28 style rosette, ebony bridge w/long saddle (2 ¼” string spacing), 1 11/16” nut width, ebony fingerboard plain or with dots, Indian Rosewood back/sides, Honduran Mahogany neck w/Cocobolo or Madagascar Rosewood peg head overlay, vintage-style gold open-back tuners, bone nut, saddle and bridge pins, 25.4” scale length and Greven Tortis pickguard. Model VM (Vintage Mahogany) - Base Price $2,900
Dreadnaught body pattern with AAAA Sitka Spruce top, “tortoise” or ebony binding, standard D-18 style rosette, Indian Rosewood bridge with long saddle (2 ¼” string spacing), 1 11/16” nut width, Honduran Mahogany back/sides, Honduran Mahogany neck with Madagascar or Honduran Rosewood peg head overlay, ebony or bois de rose fingerboard, vintage-style nickel tuners, bone nut, saddle and bridge pins, 25.4” scale length and Greven Tortis pickguard.
Model VHR (Vintage Honduran Rosewood) - Base Price $3,200
Same as Model VR but with Honduran Rosewood back and sides.
[click on photo to open photo in a new window]
New!! Model OM/DM ("OM shape/Dreadnaught body depth Mahogany") Base Price $3,100 Similar to Martin OM body style with body depth similar to dreadnaught guitars giving a body size in between an OM and dreadnaught. Same appointments as Model VM except for body shape.
New!! Model OM/DR ("OM shape/Dreadnaught body depth Indian Rosewood") Base Price $3,100 Same appointments as Model VR except with the new custom OM/D body shape. |
|
30% deposit required on all custom orders will get your name on the list and lock in your price using current prices at that time. Prices subject to change without notice. Hardshell case included with all guitars. Buyer will be charged actual shipping prices. |
|
*AAA Adirondack Red Spruce top + $ 300.00
*Master grade Adirondack Red Spruce top 400.00
*Master grade Carpathian Spruce top 300.00
*Master grade Sitka Spruce top 100.00
*Brazilian Rosewood peghead overlay 50.00
*Diamond neck volute 100.00
*Stainless steel "T-bar" neck reinforcement 100.00
*Bois de Rose fingerboard no add. charge
*Madagascar Rosewood fingerboard 50.00
*Brazilian Rosewood fingerboard 150.00
*Brazilian Rosewood bridge 50.00
*Herringbone top purfling 100.00
*Brazilian Rosewood Binding 100.00
*Curly Koa binding 75.00
*Curly Maple, Ebony or Indian Rosewood binding no add. charge
*Waverly Gold or Nickel vintage-style open-back tuners 200.00
*Fossil Ivory bridge pins, nut and saddle 350.00
*Camel Bone bridge pins 25.00
*Greven pickguard of your choice no charge
*Custom neck width/shape 100.00
*Custom bridge string spacing 75.00
*Fingerboard inlay options Inquire
*Custom scale length 100.00
*Madagascar Rosewood back/sides (Model VRV) 600.00
*Ziricote back/sides (Model VRV)when available 600.00
*Brazilian Rosewood back/sides (Model VRV) Available! $1700 and up
*AAAA Curly Walnut back/sides (Model VRV) 300.00
*Custom Cedar Creek Builder Series Case 100.00
|
|
I began using a three-part varnish finish on guitar #06 in 2002. My process is simple yet time-consuming: First I spray on a few coats of a dilute spirit varnish (shellac flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol also referred to as "shellac") to seal the instrument and give something for the oil varnish to stick to. After sealing I wait a few days for curing then sand lightly with 400 or 600 grit paper and begin brushing on my "secret" oil varnish. I'll usually apply two or three coats depending on how much is needed to get a smooth surface. Less on the spruce top and more for porous back and side woods. After the final coat of oil varnish I will wait at least a week and then wetsand with 400 to get the surface smooth and about 80% free of pores. Then I begin applying spirit varnish with a pad, shellac and olive oil as a lubricant thereby beginning the "french polishing" process. If needed I will fill pores a little more with the pad and shellac and pumice powder. Once the surface looks pretty smooth I will change to a new pad lubricated with olive oil and use only denatured alcohol applied to the pad (see pictures below). This will start bringing up the final shine. This process can take several weeks to get right and takes alot of patience. Finally after the french polished guitar has had a week or so to cure I may buff a little here or there with a wheel and fine compound. Here's a few pictures of me in action french polishing #018. This is a very tedious process but also very satisfying. You must take great care when handling the instrument while the spirit varnish is still tacky. Fingerprints are a killer...
A couple of close-ups of me french polishing the curved side. It's always a challenge adapting to the curves and shapes and still keep the pad moving and prevent it from sticking and making a big mess...
|